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The Definitive ATV Starting Guide: Troubleshooting and More

Author: Nick Corbett, Chief Engineer

ATV’s and bikes are not known to start as easily as say, a car or your computer. Since ATV’s and bikes have been engineered to be compact and mobile, their starting and electrical systems have been spared some of the more robust features of a car. They can be finicky and difficult to get going without the proper knowledge and procedure.


This guide is here to help you get your ATV or bike started for the first time (or any time it has trouble) and to troubleshoot any problems that will cause it not to start!


EQUIPMENT REQUIRED (for troubleshooting): Multimeter (instrument for measuring electrical signals, such as voltage, current, and resistance; comes in both digital and analog)




Before Starting


Before trying to start your ATV for the first time, there are a number of things you should do to ensure you have the best chance of getting it going the first time.



Step 1.  Check the battery

·        Find the battery. On most ATV’s it is located under the seat, which has to be removed to gain access. On larger ones it may be under a hood area.

·        Check the battery leads (red = positive, black = negative). They should be securely attached to the battery terminals, with lots of contact between the metal on both.

·        Check the battery acid level. Your battery may need filling if it has been sent unassembled. Also, your battery may not be properly filled. Be very careful as battery acid is very corrosive and dangerous. If the battery level are not above the metal plates inside, replace the battery, fill the acid level properly, or consult a mechanic.

·        Check the battery voltage level. Almost all ATV’s use a 12 Volt Direct-Current (12VDC) battery. You can check the voltage level using the DC Voltage setting on your Multimeter. Touch the red (positive) lead of the multimeter to the positive battery terminal, and the black (negative) lead to the negative battery terminal. The voltage should read at least 12.0V, but ideally it should be more (possibly over 13.0V). If it isn’t above at least 11.8V, you need to charge or replace the battery. Your ATV will not start properly otherwise.

Step 2. Check the electrical system

·        Insert the key into the ignition, and turn it to the on position. To check the electrical system is at least at first glance working properly, turn on the headlights and engage the brakes. The rear brake light should light up. Check any other electrical systems not associated with the motor for function (such as a winch). All systems should be working properly; if not skip to the troubleshooting section.

·        Turn off all systems you previously turned on to check function.

Step 3. Prepare the carburetor

·        Loosen the screw on the bottom of the carburetor to relieve gas pressure so gas can properly flow into the carb. Loosen it completely and then retighten it.

Step 4. Check and fill the fuel system.

·        Fill the fuel tank with a small amount of fuel. Do not fill it completely, only enough to get the vehicle started and drive around for a short amount of time.

·        Replace the fuel cap.

·        Turn the gas petcock (valve) to the ON position. Most ATV’s have a gas valve that controls flow of the fuel from the tank to the carburetor (some small ATVs do not). Locate this and turn it clockwise to the ON position. NOTE: Most ATVs come with the fuel valve already ON. Clockwise may not be ON; consult the manual.

This is the fuel valve on a 300 cc ATV, make sure the valve is set to the “ON” position. In the background you can see the fuel filter and fuel line.



Step 5. Check the engine oil

·        Unscrew and remove the dipstick on the engine casing and check that the oil level is correct. All ATVs should come prefilled with oil, but double check this or you could ruin your engine!

Step 6. Check safety

·        Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area when running a gasoline engine. Make sure there is adequate space to move/drive the vehicle.






Below I will go over the proper starting procedure. Follow this procedure for starting a new ATV or motorcycle engine, or any time you haven’t been using your vehicle for a while.


Now that you have checked the electrical system and filled the vehicle with fuel, you are ready to start.


Many ATV starting problems are caused by lack of charge on the battery. If you have a Car Booster kit or battery charging system (usually plugs into the wall and then has leads for a battery) use it to help you start the ATV.





Step 1. Insert and turn the ignition key to starting position.


Step 2. Engage the brakes

·        I can’t stress this enough! Although not necessary always for safety, many vehicles are wired so they can’t be started unless the brakes are engaged. Most ATVs have a locking brake handle so they can stay engaged without your hand. The rear brake lights should come on to confirm you have the brakes engaged.

Lock the brakes in position using the locking button on the brake lever.



Step 3. Put the vehicle in neutral

·        For safety and also starting, make sure the vehicle is in neutral gear. To confirm, you should be able to push the vehicle forwards and backwards by hand if it is in neutral. Many ATVs are wired so you can’t start it unless it is in neutral.

The green light indicates the ATV is in neutral.



Step 4. Disengage the engine kill switch

·        The kill switch is usually located on the left handle bar. It is usually either a slide or push button switch, and is marked by a small circle with an arrow on the tail. “Run Engine” position is this symbol, while “Kill Engine” is the same symbol with an “X” overtop. Slide the switch to “Run Engine” position, or push the button in (usually in is Start, out is Stop).

Set the killswitch to “Run” mode (indicated by non-crossed-out circle)



Step 5. Engage the choke

·        Engage the choke by moving the lever to the “Choke Closed” position. This symbol looks like a valve in a pipe, and the Closed symbol has the valve in a closed position, blocking the pipe. A closed choke allows more fuel to enter the carb for starting, while an open choke is used during normal operation to allow the normal amount of air to enter. You only want to have the choke closed when cold-starting (starting for the first time or after not using for a long time).

·        The choke lever is often located on the left handlebar. The “Closed” position is when you push the lever open (usually all the way to the left). Sometimes the choke is located on the engine itself. It is usually shipped in the “Open” position, so change its position the first time you start it. Consult your manual to find more about the choke.


Engage the choke by pulling the lever all the way left.


The choke may not always be located on the handle bars. Here you see the choke lever on the carburetor itself, which is often connected to a cable that runs to the handle bars.



Step 6. Press the igniter button and start the engine.

·        Now that everything is set up, start the engine. Do this by pressing the ignition button, usually located on the left handle bar. Some ignition switches are in the ignition key and are engaged by turning the key to the ignition position (like a car). The ignition switch is often yellow and located on the bottom of the left handle bar, but this varies. Consult your manual for the position of this switch.

·        If your vehicle does not have an ignition switch (unlikely), use the pull starter.

·        When you hear the engine turn over, give the engine a little bit of gas by softly pumping the throttle a few times.

·        At this point your engine should start and idle!

Step 7. Disengage the choke

·        IMMEDIATELY after getting your engine started, disengage the choke, or it will stall. Do this by returning it to its normal position, usually all the way to the right on the handle bar.

·        Your engine should idle normally at this point. If it does, let it idle for a while and warm up. Then give it some gas (in neutral) and check to see it revs up properly. Take your vehicle for a spin, but do not let the revs get too high on first ride (break-in).

·        If your engine does not start at this point, or does not idle, STILL DISENGAGE THE CHOKE. If you don’t you may flood the engine (overfill it with fuel) and it will have to sit for a while/be drained before you can start it again.

·        If your engine runs properly, you should be able to stop and restart it without engaging the choke. Leave the choke disengaged until it has been a long time since you last started the engine.


Starting Troubleshooting


If you are having trouble starting, DON’T HOLD THE IGNITION SWITCH IN FOR A LONG TIME. This will drain your battery very fast.


My Engine Starts but doesn’t Idle!

Make sure you disengage the choke. If your engine does not idle, you may not have enough charge in the battery. Rev the engine up if you can get it started, and keep it at mid-range revs for a while so the battery can charge and the engine can warm up. Charge the battery with an external charger or jumper cables if you have them.


The Engine Doesn’t Turn Over!

“Turning over” refers to the engine making a repetitive sound that is produced by the Starter Motor (an electrical motor that mechanically turns the internal engine parts so it can start). You hear this sound before the engine “catches” and begins idling.


If yours is not turning over, you have an electrical or control problem. It is usually a control problem, such as the necessary switches not being ON. These usually include the ignition key, kill switch, neutral gear, and/or brakes. If this is not the case, there is a problem with the starter motor; jump to the “Troubleshooting: Engine” section. Note that if there isn’t enough charge on the battery, the Starter Motor will still turn over, but the ignition system will have a problem.


The Engine Turns Over but will not Catch!

This is the most common symptom you will encounter and can be caused by a number of things:


-          Ignition System problem: the engine is not getting a spark, or not getting a properly timed spark. This can be caused by the CDI, ignition coil, exciter coil, spark plug, wiring, pulse sensor, or insufficient battery charge.

-          Charging System problem: this can cause an Ignition System problem, and can be caused by the magneto, stator, regulator/rectifier, or battery. Usually this will not be the cause of not starting, but it will lead to battery charge problems or the engine dying during operation, which leads to more starting problems.

-          Engine System problem: this is usually caused by the carburetor, either not mixing the fuel/air properly, or being faulty. It can be also be caused by lack of gasoline or gasoline flow.


Jump ahead to the next section to help you troubleshoot the above categories.




In this section I will go into detail into the systems that could prevent your vehicle from starting. But first, lets go over one of the most common problems:


Your Battery Probably Doesn’t Have Enough Charge!

Many ATVs will not start on the first attempt, simply because they are new. This isn’t a problem, but it causes a problem! When you try to start the vehicle multiple times in a row, it drains the battery very fast! So your vehicle may be completely fine, except that it does not have enough charge to start anymore.


The easiest way to diagnose this is to turn off all the vehicle’s system and measure the battery voltage using a Multimeter (see section on “Before Starting” to see how to do this). If the battery voltage is below 12.0V, you don’t have enough charge. Many will read around 10.8 – 11.5V. This is too low! You may be able to get away with 11.8V or so, but ideally, you want your battery at 12.0V or above.

This is an easy problem to fix with the right equipment. The best way is to use a Battery or Car Booster, found at any automotive supply store. These boxes come in all shapes and sizes, but have one common feature: they plug into a 120VAC (wall outlet) plug and transfer electricity to a battery using two large cables with alligator clips on the ends. Some are more advanced and have different charge modes and diagnostic info; some are simple and are not much more than a box with wires.


If your battery charge is low, connect one of these devices to your battery and let it charge for a long period of time (at least 30 minutes). The best types will give you the battery charge in percentage; once your battery is at about 75% it will be able to start the vehicle, with help.


When you do go to restart your vehicle, leave the Battery Booster attached (and if possible, put it in “Starting Mode”, usually a high-current mode for jumping cars).


If you don’t have a Battery Booster, you can use Jumper Cables! Regular jumper cables can be attached to a car’s battery to charge your ATV battery. Connect red (positive) to red, and black (negative) to black terminals between the two batteries. Start the car or charging vehicle, and let it charge the ATV battery for at least 30 minutes. Afterwards, attempt to start the ATV with the jumper cables still attached and the charging vehicle still running.


Troubleshooting: Ignition System

Not having proper ignition (spark) is one of the most common problems. If your engine turns over, but does not catch, it can likely be an ignition problem. One of the most common causes is lack of battery charge, as described above. This is the first thing to look for.


The purpose of the ignition system is to create a spark in the engine at the correct time. To do this, it uses a spark plug, which creates a spark by receiving a very high voltage from the ignition coil. The ignition coil receives its voltage from the CDI, which gives the voltage to the ignition coil at the correct time based on the pulse sensor. Each piece of this system is crucial, and each can cause the vehicle to not start.


Typical Ignition System schematic.


Let’s start at the spark and work backwards.


Spark Plug

The spark plug screws into the engine casing. It can be faulty or not be receiving the correct voltage.


First, inspect the spark plug for corrosion or build-up in the spark gap area. There should be small (1 mm) gap in the spark gap area, and it should not be plugged or clogged.

The spark plug and spark plug cap, which pulls off easily. Remove spark plug using socket wrench and reinsert into cap for testing. Check cap and spark plug wire for continuity.


Testing the spark plug

To test the spark plug is working, first remove it from the engine casing. You can do this using a socket wrench; once it is loose, it should easily screw out. To test it, you need to hold the case (metal outer casing, includes threads, etc) of the spark plug to a grounded area of the vehicle. This will be a NON-PAINTED part of the frame, engine case, etc, that is metal. You can check an area is grounded using your Multimeter. Put it in Continuity mode (it should beep when you connect the two leads) and hold one lead on the negative battery terminal and one lead on the area you want to use as a ground. The Multimeter should beep.

Checking an area for grounding using multimeter. Notice I am probing a metal screw, as coated or painted areas are not grounded!


BE CAREFUL, as this next section involves exposed high voltages! Hold the spark plug by the ceramic (white) casing area.


Hold the spark plug, exposed so you can see the spark gap, against the grounded area, and try to start the engine (make sure killswitch is disengaged, brakes on, in neutral, and press the ignition). You should hear the engine turn over and you should see a small spark on the end of the spark plug periodically.


How to test a spark plug for spark, holding the case against a grounded area (in this case a metal bolt). Note that it would have to be inserted into spark plug cap/wire.


If you see a spark, then you probably don’t have an Ignition System problem. Your problem is most likely a battery charge or fuel/carburetor problem. However, it could be caused by a faulty pulse sensor (ensures proper spark timing).


If you don’t see a spark, read on, as it could be caused by a number of things.


Spark Plug Cap/Wire

One reason for the spark plug not firing could be the connection to the rest of system. Inspect the Cap (the connector) which should easily come off the spark plug. Check for corrosion or any reason it would not connect to the spark plug. Next, check the connection between thick wire and the cap. Give it a good tug; it should not come apart. If it does, it may be a wire issue, which will need to be replaced or fixed. Next check, the wire’s connection to the Ignition Coil, which is where the thick spark plug wire will lead.


You can check Continuity between the Spark Plug Cap and the Ignition Coil using your multimeter as before. In Continuity mode, put one lead inside the Cap where the spark plug connects, and the other lead on the Ignition Coil terminal where the wire connects; make sure both leads are touching the metal part of the wire/connector/terminal. You should hear a beep (or see 0.0 or 0.1 ohms on the display).


Ignition Coil

Ignition coils are not prone to failure, so you probably shouldn’t second guess them. However, it is a good idea to test that the coil is getting enough voltage.


Using your multimeter, set it to AC Voltage mode. Touch one lead to the Ignition Coil’s terminal where it connects to the CDI. Ignition coils only have 2 wires connected to them, so this will be the opposite of the one connected to the spark plug. Connect the other lead to ground. Now, crank the engine (try to start it). You should see a voltage between 12 – 200 V. If you see any voltage in this range, it is probably working correctly. You should only be worried if you see no voltage, or very small voltage (less than 2V). If you don’t see a voltage, you may likely have a faulty CDI.


Indicating where the CDI and Ignition Coil are located (CDI is pointed to by left finger, ignition coil by right finger). You can also see CDI connector on the left, and spark plug wire to the left of ignition coil.


CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)

The heart of the Ignition System is the CDI, which coordinates and controls the spark in the engine. It typically has 5 or 6 wires connected to it (as seen in the diagram above). It looks like a small black box and will be located near the ignition coil.


Most of the connections are made to coils in the system. Coils are used to generate voltage or signals from moving components, or to convert electricity to a different form. Coils are not prone to failure, so if you are having ignition problems, it is probably due to what has been discussed above, or due to the CDI or the CDI’s connections.


The first thing to check is the CDI’s connection to ground. Understanding the layout of CDI can be difficult, even with a manual. If your CDI has 5 connections, one should be connected to ground. Connect your Multimeter lead to ground, and with the other check all 5 CDI terminals; if one has continuity to ground, you are OK. If it has 6 connections, do the same, and one should have continuity to ground (the ground cable) and one should be connected to ground if the killswitch is engaged/disengaged (changes). Put the killswitch in both positions, and check the 6; in one position, two terminals should ground, in the other, one should ground.


The 5-pin CDI connector.


An underneath-looking-up shot of the CDI (black box with white zip tie around it), connector on the left.


Try to determine which connection is connected to the Exciter Coil. This coil generates a large AC voltage (12 – 200 VAC) when the engine turns. This voltage is provided to the CDI, which gives it to the spark plug at the right time. Test this connection in the same way as Ignition Coil, with your multimeter. You should see a large AC voltage on the connection when the engine is cranked.


A faulty CDI would not provide voltage to the ignition coil, or it would at the wrong timing. If you see the correct voltages and continuities on the CDI terminals, but see no voltage at the ignition coil, replace the CDI. If the CDI tests are successful and it is providing voltage to the ignition coil, it is most likely not the CDI or some part of the Ignition System, but rather a fuel/carb problem. It could also be the Pulse Sensor, which uses the engine rotation to tell the CDI when to fire, but this hard to diagnose and not likely.


Troubleshooting: Charging System


The Charging System of an ATV is responsible for keeping your vehicle’s battery charged while the engine is running. Most of the starting components are located in the Ignition System; the only one that is affected by the Charging System is the battery. Therefore, a failure in your Charging System is not likely to prevent your vehicle from starting; rather it will cause your vehicle to stall while running or drain your battery, preventing starting.


Larger vehicles such as cars use an alternator to charge the battery. An alternator would be impractical and too large for an ATV, so instead, a magneto and stator system is used.


The magneto is a set of magnets that are attached in a 1:1 gear ratio to the flywheel of the crankshaft. What this means is that when your engine runs (the crankshaft turns), the magneto spins at the same RPM as your engine. The magneto spins around the stator, a collection of wire coils. These two electromagnets spinning generates AC electricity, which is used to charge the battery. The AC generated is converted into DC (the battery’s electricity type) using a regulator/rectifier.


What about failures? As I said before, coils are unlikely to fail. This means that your magneto and stator are unlikely sources of failure. Many people inquire about upgrading stators. What this would do is allow more power output from your engine to charge and power electrical devices. You may want to consider this if you are using external accessories such as lights, winches, etc, and are experiencing problems.


What if my vehicle stalls at idle? This could be caused by high charging loads, such as external accessories. Try turning them off, and see if the problem still occurs. If so, you may need to fix or upgrade your stator. Magnetos are difficult to access and therefore tough to upgrade – but as I said before, do not normally fail.


One source of failure may be your regulator/rectifier. This component serves two purposes. First, it converts AC to DC using a rectifier. Next, it “regulates” power by smoothing out voltage ripples and transient currents so that the electrical system does not have to deal with spikes and under/over voltages that could damage electrical components. Converting AC to DC is a process that is not 100% efficient, meaning that power is lost. In this case, power is lost in the form of heat. If a regulator is not sufficiently cooled, it may fail, causing your Charging System to fail.


The regulator/rectifier (note: does not have a connector, only permanent wires, making it difficult to test)


Locate your rectifier/regulator, which usually has a metal casing with fins (a heatsink) to dissipate heat. Unfortunately testing this device is difficult, since it requires the engine running to have an output, but to test its output it cannot be connected to the battery. But to get the vehicle running, you will need a battery…see the problem here? If you suspect a regulator is failing, it will probably be VERY hot (as opposed to just hot, which is normal; normal hot you should be able to touch it for a few seconds without burning yourself). Symptoms of regulator failure would be the engine starting, but then dying a short time later at idle or dying during normal operation.


Make sure you check other failure causes of engine stalls such as lack of fuel, blocked fuel lines, carburetor problems, or blocked air intake/exhaust before replacing a regulator.



Troubleshooting: Engine System


The Engine System is the most difficult to troubleshoot, since it involves moving mechanical parts that are difficult to access and diagnose. Common Engine System problems include:


Lack of fuel. This is an easy one and can be checked by opening your fuel tank. Always check this first!


Blocked fuel line. This could be easy (due to the fuel valve being off) or more difficult such as debris in the fuel line. Some smaller ATVs do not have a fuel filter, so if debris enters the gas tank, it could clog the gas lines. An easy way to test if your carburetor is receiving fuel follows: try to start your ATV as normal. If it is not starting (and the fuel tank is filled, and fuel valve on) there should be fuel in the carburetor. You can drain this fuel using the screw at the bottom of the carburetor, usually near a small rubber tube. Loosening this screw drains the fuel from the carburetor. If your carb is receiving fuel, a puddle of fuel should drain out the tube when you loosen the screw.


Blocked air intake. An engine breathing fresh air is essential to have it run properly. Check that the air intake (which should be attached to the top of the carburetor through a hose/filter assembly) is not blocked or clogged in any way. Remove the air filter and check that is clean.


Blocked exhaust. An engine expelling exhaust is also essential. A blocked exhaust could cause your engine to stall or not start. Check the exhaust pipe for blockages and any other visible problems such as holes. Checking beyond this is difficult and requires disassembly.


Besides the easy to determine problems above, there are more complicated Engine System problems that could prevent starting. A faulty carburetor is the most likely. A carburetor is a complicated mechanical device that mixes fuel and air at the proper combination for combustion. Since this combination changes as throttle is increased, it is a fairly complex system that adapts to a range of engine loads.


Flooding is a common carburetor problems that occurs when it is filled with too much fuel and cannot gain a proper air/fuel mixture. This usually occurs after trying and failing to start the engine too many times, filling the carb with excess fuel. Draining the carb as above (loosen bottom screw) can relieve this problem.


Beyond this, diagnosing carburetor problems is difficult and is meant for a certified mechanic. If you have exhausted all the possibilities presented in this article and suspect your carburetor is the culprit, your best bet is to take your vehicle to a mechanic. Some carburetor problems can be solved with simple means, such as adjusting the jetting screws, but most are more complicated and require disassembly of the carb, not something to be undertaken by someone who does not know what they’re doing. Check back in the future for an article addressing carburetor jetting procedure.


Even so, adjusting carb jetting only adjusts fuel flow to the carburetor. If you can’t start your vehicle, it is likely a more complicated problem than jetting.


Starter Motors help mechanically get the engine going using electricity. If you do not hear your engine turning over and you are certain all the controls are in the correct position for starting, you may have a starter motor problem. Make sure you have enough charge on the battery and that the wires are all connected properly and securely, especially the battery leads. Starter motors are internal to the engine and therefore very difficult for the average user to fix. Take your vehicle to a mechanic if you suspect the starter motor is not working.





Although long, this article is very detailed in the ways to overcome your vehicle not starting. Hopefully this will help you start your vehicle, and if not, diagnose what is wrong with it.


Getting an ATV or bike started can be a frustrating task, but it is not futile, and the reward is worth the work. Hopefully your problem is a simple one, but if it is more complicated, review this article carefully and try to diagnose it yourself. If you cannot, your best course of action is to consult a mechanic.


Remember to double check everything you’ve done, as it is usually the very simple things (such as having the brakes on…I struggled with that one for a while a few weeks ago) that prevent your vehicle from starting. Good luck!



Szappanos, George. ATV Electronics series: Part 1 – ignition systems.


Gustafson, Gary L. A Primer on ATV Charging Systems.


Left by: tonyb6
Left on: 07/14/2013 09:48 AM
I have the same problem my sons bike will start if I cross out the solenoid runs good but will not start on starter button . just put new start button assembly
Left by: DonWiebe
Left on: 06/09/2012 06:08 AM
I have a 330 gio bear,it ran good but now it bogs, what would be the problem,carberator ,put in new plug and fuel pump & filter,still bogs, what to look for next,!thx.
Left by: 2srsweet
Left on: 05/21/2012 01:23 PM
I had my boy riding his gio rebel T1 for about an hour for the first time when we noticed it was smoking and when we went to check it it was so hot it had melted the dipstick and the spark plug wire was starting to melt. I am stumped. it was running fine. Could really use some advice. Thanks
Left by: maxtml
Left on: 03/13/2012 05:39 PM
why does my giovanni 250 x31 back fire every time i give it high revs are they sapose too do that or is there something wrong with it??
Left by: hawkeye15
Left on: 03/04/2012 04:08 PM
When buying and putting togeather a 125 atv there are two kill switch,s on these machines. ? One on the handle bars and one at the end of the machine ? I f not plugged off , no spark at plug .
Left by: hawkeye15
Left on: 03/04/2012 04:05 PM
Just got rebel 125 cc , when starting engine reves too high . Question ,,how do you slow it down or is it in carb linkage ?
Left by: corytina
Left on: 05/23/2011 04:45 PM
I have a 110 for my son. It starts and idles fine as soon as you try and accelerate it pops and backfires. Let go of the throttle and it idles fine. Cna someone help. I think its the timing advance.
Left by: canuckfan
Left on: 11/26/2010 09:57 AM
The 2 wires on a 200cc beast that come out of the clutch lever handle on my new quad are not hooked up to anything, could this be the reason my atv won't start? I have spark and fuel etc. and everything else is working
Left by: Daddyola
Left on: 04/26/2010 09:01 PM
I turn on the key, put on the brake and reset the kill switch but when I hit the starter button nothing. If I jump the solenoid the quad will start and there is lots of power. My sons Geo Beast is dead. It started good yesterday.
Left by: kazreg
Left on: 03/14/2010 09:06 AM
I'm a newbie to ATV's. My buddy bought me a 50cc atv. It started and worked great all last year. I can't get it to start properly. I did read read the blog but I'm at bit confused on the whole carb and choke lever. I started the atv with the manual chock lever in the up position. After about a minute or 2 I flipped the lever to the down or normal running position. The atv quit on me and I couldn't start it again. Can someone help me with this or maybe post a blog on a 50cc atv?

Left by: kost69
Left on: 03/09/2010 08:40 PM
No spark in 125CC (YL306) ordered new stock stator but thy sent a high performance stator . They claim to connect the green and yellow wires to the high pressure bag end , do they mean straight to the coil or into the cdi box . Could you please advise what wires go were . Might you have a drawing for wiring the high performane stator . ( 125 cc dirt bike YL306 ) Shoud I have any voltage from the two wires coming out of the igniter when I kick the engine over . I have 6 volts coming from the magneto to the ignter when I kick engine over .
Left by: patrichard
Left on: 02/20/2010 04:42 PM
nice advice , everybody must read that before using atv s for the first time !!
Left by: Victory12
Left on: 10/14/2009 09:52 AM
I bought a T3200cc, wont' turnover,any suggestions, solenoid, starter? Any advice appreciated.
Left by: admin
Left on: 10/11/2009 06:19 PM
Great blog. Everybody who has problem starting ATV should read this,
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