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CNC Upgrade Parts for Dirt Bikes
CNC Upgrade Parts for Dirt Bikes
Author: Nick Corbett, Chief Engineer
Looking for a way to add durability, aesthetics, and performance to your dirt bike? Check out Gio’s CNC parts selection, which add sleak looks to your bike and offer better manufacturing quality than stock parts.
Gio offers a range of dirt bike upgrades, including:
All of these parts can be had for ridiculously low prices by checking out our CNC Parts auction section. The parts come in a variety of colors to match your tastes. These parts were tested with a 125 cc dirt bike but will fit most similar size bikes. Let’s delve into these parts a bit more and learn how to install them.
What is CNC and what makes it superior? CNC stands for “Computer Numerical Control”, which is just a fancy name for computer-controlled manufacturing. Instead of using die-casts or manual-controlled milling, computers are used to control metal cutting machines. This computer-control ensures precise, perfect manufacturing every time.
As well as being precisely manufactured, CNC parts are cut out of solid blocks of metal alloys, making them virtually indestructible. They do not suffer from stress lines or manufacturing deficiencies associated with die-casting and hand milling. Most stock parts are die-cast (molds are filled with molten metal and set) and are susceptible to breakage through normal wear, or can have unexpected breaks from bad manufacturing.
It is worth it to upgrade your bike’s components to CNC parts just for the added durability (especially handles and levers), if not for the nice look of the sleak parts!
Gio’s Throttle Handle/Housing are a great upgrade to your most used control mechanism – your throttle.
Start the installation of the throttle handle by removing the stock throttle handle. This is simple; first remove the (2) screws (Phillips) holding the clamp onto the handle bar. It should slide on and off the handle bar. Next, unscrew the throttle cable connection (silver circular nut). This should give you access to the end ball of the cable, which can be easily slid out of the old throttle assembly.
To begin installation of new throttle handle, remove the Allan-key screws that hold on the clear guard and handle-side plate, to give you access to the internal area of the throttle assembly.
To complete the installation of the throttle handle, put everything in the proper position and reinsert all screws. These include the two handle plate Allan-key screws, the clear guard and its small screw, and the two screws that clamp the throttle handle to the handle bars (adjust as desired). You will now have to adjust the throttle cable to get the proper carburetor operation. If your throttle cable does not have enough slack when the throttle handle in the completely off position, you may have to adjust the carburetor jetting instead of being able to adjust throttle cable. This involves adjusting the pilot screw of the carb or possibly some internal components. More on this in a later article.
Installing the new CNC brake lever is easy. First start by removing the main bolt holding the stock brake lever onto the brake fluid reservoir (10 mm nut and bolt).
Remove the stock brake lever. Grab your new CNC brake lever and insert the metal spacer into the main hole. Then insert the CNC brake lever + spacer into the slot on the brake fluid reservoir. Next insert the provided bolt (flat-head screwdriver fitting) and 10 mm nut and secure them tightly. Finally, adjust the brake lever as desired for hand-size. On the handle there is a long nut and threaded spacer. Loosen the nut and screw the spacer in or out to adjust lever position, and then retighten the nut to secure the spacer.
Both the CNC Clutch Lever and Brake Lever are great for people with big hands since they offer lots of position adjustment. Installation of the clutch lever is fairly straight forward as well.
First, remove the stock clutch lever. Start by removing the two bolts (8 mm) that clamp the stock lever to the handle bars. Next, unscrew the clutch cable connection from the stock lever and remove the lever all together. As well, remove the stock clutch cable connection (threaded tube and circular nut), as the CNC parts come with their own (gold color).
You should be left with just the clutch cable and its end-ball.
Finally, attach the clutch lever to the handle bars by positioning the clamp and tightening the Allan-key screws to securely attach the clutch lever. You can adjust the lever position for hand size in the same manner as with the brake lever. You should also adjust the slack in the clutch cable by adjusting the gold cable connector. Before you adjusted it for maximum slack. Now, with the lever in the open (all the way out) position, adjust the cable so there is no slack. When you pull on the lever, you should feel resistance immediately.
Engine dress up kits are mostly for looks, but do add durability to key components. They are easy to install. First, remove the (3) 10 mm bolts on the right-side crank case cover (right side, front cover of engine). The middle bolt will be very long and go through the entire case. You may have to remove the spark plug connector to gain access to the bolts. Next, slowly remove the right-side cover. Now shift over to the other side and slowly remove the circular left-side cover. Both covers may take some prying to get off – be gentle and be sure not to remove the O-rings with the covers.
Now, put the CNC engine covers onto the engine case. Insert and retighten the long, middle bolt, which holds the left-side cover on. Now reinsert and tighten the other two bolts. The side covers are now done.
To change the front cover, remove the (4) 10 mm nuts and then remove the cover. Insert the new cover and retighten the nuts. Easy as that, and you now have a cool new look for your bike!
Left by: valrob
Left on: 11/18/2009 07:17 PM
The throttle housing will not fit a 2010 X31 or X35 bike. The inner cable is too short when you wrap it around the spool of the housing. I had to purchase a longer throttle cable at a bike shop, use the existing housing with the longer cable and solder on a stop piece at the end at the right length (about 1-1/4" longer than the stock inner cable length). Also, the gas tank pushes down on the connection to the top of carb, so it affects fine adjustments of the cable length. I had to empty the tank and use a heat gun to soften and push down on a ridge on the bottom of the tank to make for more clearance for the cable connection to the carb. After all this, the cable runs smooth with no hang up anywhere.
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